Glossary of handloom terms

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  • Warping drum, used to lay the length of the warp on the loom

  • Matchbox check, check woven in the shape of matchbox

  • Red colour extracted from a coal tar derivative

  • Yellow colour extracted from rind of pomagrenate 

  • Environment friendly chemical dyes

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  • Small motifs woven on the surface of the fabric 

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  • Fibre from cotton plant

  • A number given to define thickness of yarn used in weaving

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  • Term for 'yarn' in Telugu. Also, the name of our handloom store in Hyderabad

  • Dastkar Andhra Marketing Association

  • Drawing yarn through dents

  • An extra warp technique used for weaving patterns in the borders

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  • Chemical dye categories like reactive and vat dyes, which are environment friendly 

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  • Type of a loom, which is fixed to a frame and fitted onto the ground

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  • Printing done by hand with wooden blocks

  • A loom operated manually

  • Cloth woven on a handloom

  • Sarees woven on pit looms or frame looms

  • Fabric woven on a loom by hand without electricity

  • Handloom Weavers’ Co-operative Society

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  • Blue dye extracted from indigo plant

  • Independent Weaver Group

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  • An extra weft weaving technique to weave motifs

  • Telugu term for two threads in a dent

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  • A hand block printing technique and style which is done in Machilipatnam area of Krishna district of Andhra Pradesh

  • Fabric woven by hand using hand spun yarn

  • Interlock weave using three shuttles and is famous for weaving solid borders and body

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  • The instrument used for interlacement of two sets of yarn – the warp and the weft

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  • Fabric named after Mangalagiri town in Guntur district where it was first woven in 60’s count yarn in warp and 40’s count yarn in weft

  • Texture created by yarn missing in a dent (Dent is the gap between two reed wires)

  • Yarn missing in a dent in a regular pattern

  • Weft yarn missing regularly or at intervals while weaving a fabric

  • Chemical substance that helps fix colour to the fibre

  • Special silk yarn from Assam

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  • Dye extracted from naturally grown materials

  • Dyeing carried out with natural dye materials

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  • End piece in a saree

  • Weft threads referred to as 'picks' in english

  • Term for dobby technique in Telugu. It is an extra weft technique used to weave pattern in the border of sarees or dhotis traditionally

  • Type of a loom with a pit with the pedals located in the pit for the feet to operate the loom

  • Warp threads referred to as 'ends' in english

  • Shrinking before use for correct measurement

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  • Random tie and dye on the yarn before it is woven

  • Environment friendly chemical dyes (also called azo free chemical dyes)

  • Warp guide

  • Blouse piece woven as an extension to the saree

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  • Different coloured warp and weft, woven in a fabric creating a lustrous effect

  • Instrument made out of wood used to carry the weft yarn

  • 60's x 40's (Warp x weft), counts used in weaving Mangalagiri fabric

  • Applying starch on stretched yarn, which is carried out by the weavers or by skilled groups in the village. Typically, depending on the warp length, three to four persons are required to carry out sizing. After application of the sizing paste (starch) onto the stretched yarn, special brushes are used to spread and dry the starch on the yarn. Since this activity is carried out on the street, this is referred to as “street sizing”

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  • 2 x 60's, Count of yarn, used mostly to weave different varieties of fabrics on frame looms

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  • A category of chemical dyes

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  • Yarn laid lengthwise on a loom

  • Blocks of colour across the width (Weft is the yarn which passes across the fabric width)

  • Stripes running across the width of the weave (Weft is the yarn which passes across the fabric width)

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  • Running fabric

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  • Shiny metallic yarn used mostly for patterns in dobby technique